Our honeymoon: part 1, Tuscany

I’m not even going to try and catch you all up on the last 10 months. I couldn’t possibly remember it all and I suck at this blog.

But I will say: wedding was a success, Jake has kicked off his clinical rotations (almost 2 weeks down of family med!), and yes we are still fostering kittens. What I really want to accomplish with this entry is get all my favorite Honeymoon spots from the first half of the trip down in writing. There are a lot of them, so hold tight:


We kicked things off with a few (maybe four?) nights at Casa Portagioia in Tuscany. The property is breathtaking — views of the country, a clean and refreshing pool, comfortable and luxurious bedrooms, etc. I am so, so glad we started here because it gave us a chance to recover from the chaos of the wedding and 20 hours of travel. The owners — Terry and Marcello — are absolutely fantastic. Upon arrival, they greeted us with a complimentary bottle of champagne as a congratulations, and spent the entire week making us restaurant reservations, chatting with us about American & international politics (largely because of my career), and being otherwise phenomenal hosts. Also, the breakfast buffet is great, but what you really want is for Marcello to make you eggs with tomatoes, even if you think that you don’t like tomatoes. And a caffé latte.

Brief side note: do not drink half a bottle of champagne on a near-empty stomach when you haven’t slept in 2 days unless you want the hangover of a lifetime. 

Fave restaurant from that part of the trip was Antica Pieve. Killer wine, pasta, and patio seating. And reasonably priced! The pasta in the photo is a truffle tortellini, basically. I’ve been trying to track down a similar wine because I loved the pairing so much, but no luck. The whole evening was delightfully romantic and delicious.

Terry and Marcello also sent us on day trips to Castiglione Fiorentino, Arezzo, and Florence. Most of those days consisted of wandering and eating, but the three meals I really wanted to mention are:

The ragu we ate at La Divina Bottega. The place doesn’t look like much; it’s basically a deli with a grocery store in back. But it was literally some of the best pasta I’ve ever had in my life. None of the employees speak English, so prepare to do a lot of gesturing and smiling, which is definitely a part of the charm. I think we had a full lunch for like 15 euros? Anyway, this place is wonderfully authentic, affordable, and yummy.


In Florence, we went the opposite route and booked a tasting menu dinner at Osteria Personale.  I wish I could remember what we ate. I just know that it was very chic and extremely flavorful! And romantic. This is how happy I was all day:

Hat from a street vendor, romper from Ann Taylor Loft, crossbody bag from Nordstrom.

Can someone tell me what magic Italy has in the water and air so that my skin can always look this way?

Finally, on our very scenic drive from Tuscany to Rome (that Jake planned himself), we stopped in Orvieto for lunch and another walk. We happened to be there during the lunch hours when most things are closed, but Jake found Le Grotte del Funaro. Good food, pretty outdoor seating, etc. What made this place really interesting was the spiral staircase down to an old grotto and cave underneath the restaurant. Just kind of a cool find.

Jake’s favorite, non-food part of that pit stop was, without a doubt, the breathtaking cathedral we stumbled upon. There are no words to describe how enormous, stunning, and really freaking gold this place of worship is.  We couldn’t figure out why the place wasn’t swarming with people, or how we had missed it while Googling the town. If you are ever nearby, it is truly a sight to behold. I feel very, very lucky to have witnessed it.


And that was Tuscany. Next post will be quite short since it’s just Rome, and that wasn’t my fave part of the trip, but stay tuned! And, as always, feel free to comment or reach out with any questions. Happy to offer more recs (since these are just my favorites) and rave about our bed and breakfast some more.

Love, me.

Published by Julie Bogen

CT --> NYC --> Washington, DC. Audience Engagement at The Atlantic, formerly at Vox.com & R29.

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